20/07/2014 / Sunday / Dublin to Enniskillen / 135 miles
I was woken up around 8am by some kids playing football in the park, and occasional someone would walk past. I managed to snooze in until around 9am, at which point I suddenly heard footsteps run up to the tent, then a “click, click, spoor” sound. I realised this was the indistinguishable sound of a blow torch, being lit, what gave it away most, was when a hole suddenly appeared in the roof of the tent, followed by the sound of running feet again and laughing, as I put the flames out with my bare hand. I couldn’t leave Maria to go and chase after the scumbag, as she was still out cold, besides by the time I’d scrabbled out of the tent and started in pursuit, they would have been long gone. It could have been worse. I wasn’t too fussed about the tent as it only cost me £30 and I’d already figured out a quick repair, but still. I wasn’t taking this as my introduction to Ireland, as there are scumbags everywhere.
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| Fig. 1 - New skylight fitted! |
Eventually Maria woke up around 10 am, and had a fag to wake herself up, whilst I packed up the now Holy Tent and refitted my world back on the bike.
We agreed to meet up at the petrol station as I had to take the bike, by road, through a housing estate. I felt, to be honest, a little awkward this morning, as I’d now gotten to know her a little, even though I still think she’s lovely, she has a few issues. So going from wanting to be with someone, to being with someone, even this temporary, is I feel, and this is not a light decision for me, that right now in my life I’m happy to go solo. But I didn’t realise this until I’d had some time to think back on the road, so at the time we agreed to meet up in London when I get back.
(With hindsight I feel now that it depends on the person you meet and how they make you feel once you’ve taken some time to get to know them.)
Meeting back at the petrol station we had shared some small talk, and found where the bus stop was, that she needed to catch her ride from. In hindsight I feel embarrassed that I didn’t simply get her a taxi back to the ferry, but I was still tired and wasn’t thinking straight.
We said our goodbyes, wishing each other a safe journey and I headed on to the toll motorways heading towards Enniskillen and to the Horizons Unlimited HUBB event, that I was by now extremely late for, but had hope that I’d at least see one or two people before they left.
The journey was relatively uneventful, giving me a good chance to get introduced to Ireland’s unique road signs and markings. Some of which seemed to me, to have no practical sense. Like for instance a single lane, with an arrow for going forward, whilst at the same time there’s one to its right denoting also a right turn.
I started to notice on some of the passing cars, chequered yellow and green flags. Being a bit too conscious of the troubles, I was daftly expecting all sorts and was unnecessarily uneasy of any unknown flags and painted signs, until I found out it was just a football teams colours. Later on in my journey and speaking with people I met along the way, I’m reassured that those times are now over. Even though on the way through Belfast I did see Orange Party flags and lots of Red, White and Blue paint on both the road and curb stones plus a fare few English flags in the North of Ireland, which made it nice going South, just to get away from all that Political / Religious nonsense.
I managed to get into the habit of topping up with fuel, every hour or so but there’s no need to be so fuel conscious in Ireland, as there’s plenty of fuel stations around. Still it’s a good habit to get into when you travel as it forces you to slow your pace down. Closer to Enniskillen, I spot a few Overland Bikes coming from the opposite direction, and most likely coming from the HUBB. The final leg of this short journey, before arriving at the HUBB, was via a narrow back road which was finally the type of road I was looking for, narrow, twisty and fun.
When I finally arrived, I chatted to one of the presenters who was just on his way out of the entrance, in his large white transit van. He gave me a few good tips on riding Ireland, plus a handy campsite location.
Luckily there were still around 10 or so people left who were just getting ready to leave, including Jochen who was the person I contacted to help, as a volunteer, some use I ended up being! It turned out they’d never had someone arrive so late before, but forgave me after I’d explained I’d had a better offer but I somehow I doubted that I did. I vowed to be there, and on time, next year, for sure, absolutely, maybe!!
As a bonus, after explaining the adventure so far, Jochen kindly gave me a spare tent that was donated to him that very weekend, in replacement of my burned Holy one.
I chatted to those that remained, till they were ready to leave, as I had no time pressures now. My intended official starting point, was going to be Westport. I mentioned this and was told it would take me another 4 hours easy to get there, I was persuaded to try for a Hostel, near Castle Archdale, which was only 6 miles down the road, for a good rest.
After saying my farewell’s to my fellow adventurers and feeling a little burned out, I had a quick nap on a Thermorest, that I had discovered discarded, but could still be used. After a half hour and feeling thirsty, I filled up my empty water bottle from the tap pocking out of the wall, of the hall. After taking a mouthful which I spat straight out, because it tasted so bad, I soon emptied the bottle out again. The Thermorest I presumed had been chucked because of a small leek, but I thought I could save it, repair it, maybe to keep or flog it on eBay. Even possible to give it away to someone who might need it more than me, (I wish I hadn’t of bothered). I ended up getting sick of carrying the bulky thing around and ended up leaving it at a campsite a few days later, for someone else to discover.
This now felt like the start of my travels. After leaving the HUBB and two hours later, I still couldn’t find the blinking Hostel, that was only 6 miles down the road. Mostly, because I was too tired to remember the original directions, given to me and plus the bloody Satnav sent me in variously wrong directions. On my impromptu tour, I visited a campsite called 'Castle Archdale Caravan Park', on the shore of Lough Erne, where I asked for directions, as I was determined to find a Hostel to get a good night's sleep. I eventually ended up in Enniskillen itself, after chasing down the lead given to me by the Caravan Park. This time leading me to a building that looked more like a conference centre, than a Hostel, and a closed one at that. I did finally have phone reception here though, but it didn’t help me. What a pain it is, not having access to the internet, you become so dependent on it, and I’m sure I speak for the majority, when I say that, we’ve almost forgot what to do, when our technology we so depend on fails us!
Other methods where now necessary, and not being one to be all typically manly and not ask, I look around for the best looking candidates to ask advice on local Hostels or hotels. I rule out older people, as I couldn’t see them using a Hostel, likewise I also rule out teenagers. I was looking for people around my age, to middle age, and eventually spotting a couple across the road from me. I quickly cross over and asked them for their advice. They were called Malina and John and where heading out for an evening at the cinema, but had a few minutes to spare to stop and help me out. They checked out the “Conference Centre” with me and indeed it was closed, as I had thought! Not knowing what to do with me, Malina took me under her wing and sent ‘Ed’ on ahead to the Cinema, taking me back to hers to scour the internet, to see where the nearest Hostel or hotel was for me.
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Fig. 2 - The Conference Centre or Hostel?
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Arriving at the hotel, I thank her and wish her well, then entered the Hotel and approached reception. The woman, behind the counter seemed rather grey and glum, in comparison to the friendly reception to this village, just moments before. On asking for a room for the night, I was told that they were fully booked, leaving me, to find somewhere to camp. Remembering the offer from Malina, who was only a 20 yards up the road, I intercepted her and explained what had happened. After being berated for my idiocy, she offered me her floor, but only after, I promised not to rape her in the middle of the night!? But she was still off to the cinema, and if I wanted to tag along, I was more than welcome to do so.
We met back up with ‘John’ a few minutes later and soon arrived at the cinema. Whilst walking through Enniskillen, it feels like it’s a close knit place and I jokingly said, that I bet most of the village are visiting the cinema, funny enough it turned out I was right. They’d never seen it as busy and since it was a hot day it was an absolute sauna in there. After a few minutes we made the decision to ditch the cinema in favour of the pub. Firstly swinging passed Malina’s to dumping my stuff and then head to the pub were we got something to eat and got to know each other better over a few drinks.
John works at M&S and Malina at in small café. Malina turned out to be rather a open minded woman, whilst poor ‘John’, even though he did try, bless him, just didn’t have a funny bone in him.
This seems, the right time for my first pint of Guinness, and I discover that indeed, it does taste better in Ireland, not a massive amount but I’ll keep testing. One of Malina’s friends turns up, and invites us down stairs, to where there’s a small gathering.
This friend of Malina's I instantly like, he sharp and witty but speaks slower than everyone else. I’m introduced, and Malina is soon told off for picking up strays, meaning me. It’s all good banter and drinks soon flow, it’s an unexpected but good night. Chris, a mate of Malina’s, turns to me and invites me on a hike the following morning, to Slieve League, the highest cliffs in Europe. This is a great coincidence, as it happens to be one of my listed destinations. I accept his offer and exchange numbers, arranging to meet the following morning at 09:00, Malina leans in and points out, this is Ireland and that’ll be around 09:30.
Chris heads home early, but not until we’ve given him a load of shit for doing so, he’s got a young family to go back too, which is understandable.
Soon after, Malina needs to head off too, as she’s got work in the morning, we leave and head back to hers and I move my stuff off the bike and into the lobby, taking a few bits up stairs to her flat, with me for the morning. She gives me the guided tour and fixes up the pull out sofa for me to use.
Malina offers me the use of her shower, so I go back to my bags down stairs for my showering kit. Once finished in the shower, I exit for her to use it, only to find her wrapped in nothing but a dressing gown which strikes me as a little odd considering I’m a stranger here, but I also consider that’s it’s her house and her rules, and feel more a little more comfortable.
After showering, Malina she asks if it’s okay, to sit a while and get to know each other better. She’s 29 and originally from Poland and a runaway bride, as their culture is strict, she didn’t want to be a suppressed woman both by her fiancé or her family, so she escaped and moved here to Ireland. She speaks good English, with an slight Irish lilt and used to teach English. Her immediate future plans are to move to Belfast, as she’s given Enniskillen a few years and now knows half the village by name, plus she has constant itchy feet, to keep moving on to new places.
As we chat, she confides in me something that even her close friends don’t know. One of the reasons that’s she tries to live her life, full and care free, is that she was diagnosed, a few years ago with a tumour on the brain, a time bomb of sorts. There’s a small lump on the forward, left side of her skull, which she shows me. Trying to get my head around this and trying to imagine how I would react to such news, if it was me, only makes me feel vast admiration for her. I get up and give her a hug, she’s managed to come to terms with it, but it’s the not knowing when it might go off, that keeps driving her forward.
As we say good night I kiss her, then because the feelings in the air between us we kiss more, we both want to go further, but need to keep some respect for each other, plus the fact we had only met a few hours ago, we say goodnight.
As I reflect on the last few days, wrong or right, I meet one Red Head, Maria, with a very strong character, dealing with a few issues, plus she's also 24 which feels is too young for me, whereas Malina is more my age. She’s a full of life person but I'm not sure anything could work there either, and especially over distance, I can see her being more of a good friend.
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